Hey guys, after I posted my last Harry Potter shelf video, I got some questions about the tenoning jig I used to hold the board vertical in order to make the 30-deg cut on the table saw. So I decided to post this video on this multipurpose joinery cutting jig. The main support panel coupled with the Microjig Dovetail Clamps can hold wide boards securely for most cabinet building needs. The vertical support bar can rotate from -45 to 45 deg off of vertical so I could use it to cut tenons or lap joints on angled legs, and I can also use this to cut splines on picture frames. I hope you find this video helpful, as I'm sure this jig will become an invaluable tool in the shop!
Check out the full build video below!
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materials
3/4” Plywood
step 1: breaking down materials
I started out by cutting the plywood down to make the three panels that will sandwich the fence. Make sure that the top horizontal piece is cut at least 1” wider for now since it’ll sit in dados in the side pieces later.
STEP 2: JOINERY
Next, I set the three pieces on the fence and marked out the locations of the dados on the vertical pieces and proceeded to making the cut with my dado set. Then use referential measurements to make any adjustment cuts on the horizontal piece until the assembly sandwiches the fence just snug enough so there are no lateral movements, but can still glide smoothly back and forth.
step 3: handles
Next, I cut two more dados into each of the three panels for the handles to sit in. The handles will provide a safe way to push the jig, while also help to keep the three panels squared up during glue-up.
Once the handles were cut to the proper size, I used a 3/4” straight bit in the router table to cut the finger slots. Be sure to make repetitive shallow cuts with each pass until the slot is completed. Always beware of the location of the bit! Finally, I rounded over all of the corners of the handles with a roundover bit.
step 4: groove for support
With all the pieces cut, I went on to making the hole and slot to hold the support piece and allow it to rotate. I first drilled the pivot point for the support, then I drew two lines at 45-deg from the vertical. The lines don’t need to be perfect, it’s just there to show me where to start and stop the router. To cut the groove, I used a 1/4” straight bit and a makeshift circle jig that’s pivoting around the hole drilled earlier.
step 5: dovetail grooves
Finally, I’m going to cut a few dovetail grooves into the main vertical panel for receiving the dovetail clamps I’ll use to hold workpieces in the future. After marking out the locations, I made some kerf cuts on the table saw before taking the panel to the router table to cut the grooves. This will help to reduce the load on the bit.
step 6: glue-up
Finally, I glued all the panels together. If the handles were cut properly, they should be enough to keep the three larger panels square during the glue-up. When clamping things up, make sure to apply even pressure on all the clamps so to not throw the jig out of square. Not much clamping pressure is needed for this.
step 7: support
Lastly, I used a scrap piece of red oak for the vertical support. I marked and drilled through the holes to receive the bolts, then rounded over all the sharp corners. Finally, I attached the support to the panel using a 1/4”-20 bolts I had left over from the crib I built a few months back, then locked it in place with a couple of star knobs on the back.